When delving into the realm of suit shopping, it’s easy to feel overwhelmed by the myriad of options and terminology. From deciphering the nuances of construction to grasping the significance of lapel styles, navigating the world of tailoring requires a bit of guidance. To aid in your sartorial journey, we turn to the wisdom of seasoned experts in the field. Welcome to GQ’s Tailoring 101, where we unravel the intricacies of suit lapels and offer insights from the industry’s finest.

The Significance of Lapels

Much like deciphering a piece of music, understanding the nuances of a suit jacket requires a discerning eye. According to G. Bruce Boyer, an authority in traditional menswear, the lapel plays a pivotal role in shaping the overall aesthetic of a jacket. It serves as one of the foremost elements that dictate the garment’s visual appeal and sets the tone for its entire design.

Lapel Styles: Notch, Peak, and Shawl

Lapels come in various styles, each with its own distinct characteristics. The notch lapel, commonly found on single-breasted jackets, features a small triangular cutout and is considered the most ubiquitous choice. In contrast, the peak lapel boasts an upward-facing point and is often reserved for double-breasted jackets, exuding a more formal aesthetic. The shawl lapel, with its elegant continuous swoop around the neck, is predominantly associated with tuxedo jackets, adding a touch of sophistication to formal attire.

Lapel Width: A Matter of Style

The width of a lapel contributes significantly to the overall look and feel of a suit jacket. Fokke de Jong, CEO of SuitSupply, notes that lapel width often reflects broader fashion trends, with wider lapels signaling a bolder, more assertive style, while slimmer lapels evoke a sense of simplicity and understatement. After years of narrower lapels dominating menswear, there is now a resurgence of broader lapels, signaling a shift towards a more relaxed and expansive silhouette.

Finding the Right Balance

While there is no definitive rule for lapel size, the key lies in achieving harmony between the lapel width, tie width, and shirt collar. Boyer emphasizes the importance of moderation, advising against blindly following trends in favor of maintaining a balanced aesthetic. Matching the width of the tie to that of the lapel ensures a cohesive look, with a wider lapel complementing a broader tie and vice versa. Similarly, the width of the shirt collar should align with the proportions of the lapel and tie, creating a harmonious ensemble.

Conclusion: Personal Preference Reigns Supreme

In the realm of suit lapels, there is no one-size-fits-all approach. Whether opting for a notch, peak, or shawl lapel, and regardless of lapel width, the ultimate choice boils down to personal preference and individual style. By understanding the nuances of lapel design and embracing the principles of proportion and balance, every wearer can confidently navigate the world of tailoring and curate a wardrobe that reflects their unique taste and sensibility.